Stop and measure time

When it comes to Patek Philippe watches, it’s always worth revisiting history. The first signed chronograph was still housed in a pocket case and dates back to 1856. Thirty-five years after the father of this measuring function, watchmaker Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, designed a chronograph for King Louis XVIII. The first wristwatch in an officer’s case with an opening case back was presented to the world by the Patek Philippe manufacture exactly one hundred years ago. 

 But it was not its own chronograph, like most others that came after it. In the subtle 130 reference, which was produced between 1936 and 1964, as well as in the slightly more masculine 1463 model, the brand used Valjoux movements as a base. They were meticulously decorated, modificated to perfection, and the resulting impression of the chronograph watch was a small work of art. Reference 1463, made in 1942, is now part of Sotheby's Treasures of Time auction. This split-seconds chronograph is one of approximately 120 pieces made in yellow gold. The price is expected to break the eight hundred thousand Swiss franc mark. This reference in a 35mm case is called Tasti Tondi (which translates as round buttons), and was even made in steel (about seventy such pieces have survived).

 The Patek Philippe brand seems to have built its chronograph movements on the know-how and skill of other manufacturers, but it has never made any secret of it. It worked with the best in the business, but the final look of the watch was always its own. Whether it was what was visible at first glance, i.e. the dial and case, or what was hidden, i.e. the tiny details of the movement. With the advent of the new millennium and technological advances, people have paradoxically realised how rare expert handiwork is and how exceptional the craft of watchmaking is. The demand for mechanical watches has been growing and the desire to own a high-end ticking product with a near-autonomous movement does not seem to have peaked yet. For two decades now, interest in watches has been steadily rising and the most desirable brands have realised the importance of their own in-house production. The quest for independence is the current mantra of modern watchmaking. 

Chronographs designed to measure periods of time – some of which can even record intermediate periods – are often accompanied by a tachymetric or telemetric scale. With the former we can measure the average speed for a given distance (usually a kilometre), with the latter we can find out the distance of a certain sound source. Aesthetically unbeatable are the stopwatches displayed on the enamel dial. With the reference 5370P, a very traditional chronograph with a trailing hand, the owner has to decide whether to observe the perfection of the blue enamel on the dial or the high-end movement with manual winding. For the latter is visible in all its glory through the sapphire caseback. Even more sophisticated are the references beginning with the numerals 5270 and 5271. For this combination of chronograph and perpetual calendar, Patek used its in-house calibre for the first time in 2011. Hand-wound movements and aesthetically perfectly balanced dials in six different colours are accompanied by gold or platinum cases. 

The absolute highlight among perpetual calendars with stopwatches is the reference 5208R-001 in a pink 42mm case. Its movement is composed of 719 components and, in addition to the perpetual and monopusher chronograph, it manages to convey to its owner the unforgettable sound of the minute repeater. Everything is powered by an automatic movement with microrotor, calibre R CH 27 PS QI. There are currently eleven "chrono" references in the Grand Complications collection, ten in the Complications line and the Nautilus and Aquanaut sports collections boast a total of eight models. All of them are united by the Patek Philippe Seal of quality, unprecedented precision, thin movements and original looks, the likes of which you won't find elsewhere.