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No Watch Is Complete Without a Bracelet

No Watch Is Complete Without a Bracelet

Get Inspired
Do you prefer watches on leather straps? Even so, this year consider complementing your timepiece with a metal bracelet. It can lend a watchrefined elegance while simultaneously enhancing its sporty character—and it has become one of the strongest trends showcased at this year’sWatches & Wonders fair.
No Watch Is Complete Without a Bracelet

Do you remember the stunning Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R, introduced exactly one year ago? We believe you do. With its ebony black dial and exquisite braided rose gold bracelet, the watch was nothing short of breathtaking. The renowned Swiss manufacture achieved two goals at once: it highlighted its exceptional craftsmanship and foreshadowed a trend that would fully emerge at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Metal bracelets dominated the fair—whether in sporty interpretations, as seen in new models from Panerai and TAG Heuer, or in a more classic spirit, as exemplified by the entirely new Land-Dweller collection from Rolex. Vintage elegance also played a key role, embraced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rolex, and Zenith alike. 

Geezer Watches 


The watchmaking world has always drawn inspiration from history and past fashion trends. The current revival of precious metals is no exception. Manufacturers are responding to demand for so-called “geezer watches,” whose modern embodiment is the aforementioned Patek Philippe reference 5738/1R. These are vintage gold models—often from the 1970s—characterized by unusual case shapes and bold gold bracelets. Consider, for example, the Patek Philippe ref. 3587 with the Beta 21 movement and a classic Calatrava bracelet whose perforated design resembles Swiss cheese.
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Image from library

Brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Piaget originally created these “watches for older gentlemen” to maintain their traditional clientele, while simultaneously offering the younger generation the sporty-elegant Royal Oak and Nautilus models—both famed for their iconic steel bracelets. Last year, influencer and dealer Mike Nouveau, together with collector and designer Phillip Toledano, reignited interest in geezer watches on social media, highlighting the fact that many were produced only in very limited series. 

From Chains to Steel 


Decorative bracelets were long regarded primarily as women’s accessories. Men typically wore pocket watches or wristwatches attached with leather straps. However, the popularity of gold chains and shackles (chains with a carabiner fastening) for pocket watches allowed the craft of Swiss “chainistes” to flourish. Over time, these artisans shifted from producing chains to crafting bracelets. 

Their creations gained popularity in the 1920s and 1930s, but the true boom came in the 1950s with the rise of professional watches—a trend driven largely by Rolex. Professional timepieces required durable steel, and not all Swiss chainistes, accustomed to softer gold, were able to master the new material.
Image from library
Image from library
Image from library
Image from library

An exception was the Gay Frères studio, founded in Geneva in 1835. By 1942, it was producing 700 steel bracelets a day. The company became renowned for robust designs with removable Bonklip links and later for its iconic Oyster and Jubilee bracelets created for Rolex. Its expertise in steel reached its peak in the 1970s with bracelets designed by Gérald Genta for the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet and the Nautilus by Patek Philippe. At that time, Gay Frères employed 500 people—more than Patek Philippe. In 1998, it was acquired by Rolex. 

To this day, Gay Frères remains one of the most celebrated bracelet manufacturers. It was not the only partner of Swiss brands, however. Atelier Réunis is another important name. Acquired by Patek Philippe in 1975, its original building now houses the Patek Philippe Museum. Incidentally, the company’s current president, Thierry Stern, began his career there. 

Patek Philippe also collaborated with other specialists in producing now highly sought-after and somewhat extravagant metal bracelets. Among the most exclusive was Ponti Gennari. As early as the 1950s, a watch paired with one of his bracelets cost 1,500 Swiss francs more than the leather-strap version, and these bracelets were available only by special order. In 1969, Ponti Gennari was acquired by Piaget, and its elegant, hammered gold designs remain admired to this day.

Vintage Elegance with a Contemporary Twist 


The artistry of master goldsmiths was celebrated last year by Patek Philippe and this year by Jaeger-LeCoultre in Le Sentier. The Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds has been given exceptional vintage glamour through a rose gold Milanese bracelet. This intricate design weaves tiny links in two planes from a single gold wire without interruption—requiring sixteen metres of wire for a single bracelet.
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Image from library

Although this goldsmithing technique originated in Renaissance Milan, it was German goldsmiths in the 1920s who popularized it across Europe, where it caused a true sensation. Milanese bracelets can appear either elegant or sporty depending on the watch; steel versions, for example, adorn two new Breitling chronographs from the Top Time Coppi & Bartali collection. 

Rolex has introduced a new yellow gold bracelet design for its Perpetual 1908 model, named Settimo. Inspired by ancient goldsmithing traditions, it offers modern durability and exceptional comfort. 

The 39 mm watch from Zenith’s G.F.J. collection can be paired with a newly developed seven-link platinum bracelet. Due to its exclusivity and price, it is available only by special order. Its central links echo the elegance of the 1950s and feature a checkered motif reminiscent of the brick façade of the Zenith manufacture in Le Locle.
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Image from library

Long live sports! 


A year after its debut, Rolex has enhanced its Land-Dweller collection with a Flat Jubilee bracelet, offered on 40 mm and 36 mm models in platinum, Everose gold, and a combination of white gold and Rolesor steel. Inspired by the original Jubilee bracelet introduced with the Datejust in 1945, the new version features a flatter, more contemporary look. Bevelled and polished edges on the outer and central links create the impression of ribbons of light, while ceramic inserts inside the first links ensure a secure connection to the case. 

TAG Heuer has also unveiled a new bracelet for its Carrera models (introduced in 2023). Inspired by a 1960s steel design originally manufactured by Gay Frères, it resembles symmetrically arranged grains of rice—a motif popular in vintage Longines and other historic pieces. The Carrera Day-Date now features a practical system allowing links to be added or removed without special tools. 

The three-link and five-link steel bracelets have also appeared for the first time on the Black Bay Chrono 41 mm models from Tudor. Panerai has followed suit with an improved bracelet design whose links echo the semi-circular crown protector of the Luminor. Thanks to an easy strap and bracelet exchange system, all Luminor Marina models purchased with a bracelet now also include both an alligator strap and a rubber strap. Lovers of leather, therefore, need not worry—they have certainly not been forgotten.
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Image from library

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